Two weekends ago I visited Derry, Northern Ireland's border city and possibly the most historic site of conflict between the two states. Before taking my class on "The Two Irelands in the Twentieth Century", I wouldn't really know a thing about The Troubles but with just a slight amount of background information the experience was very moving.
I traveled with two guys in my program, Matt and Mike. We took a 5 and a half hour bus ride and I discovered that traveling is what I have really been missing here. I get frustrated staying in Galway every weekend, so it was fun to leave for a couple of nights. We stayed at the Independent Hostel (which I highly recommend) and befriended the manager who is from California but has lived all over the world.
He set up a tour for us of Derry with a man who served as an IRA (Irish Republican Army) volunteer and was a marcher on the fateful Bloody Sunday massacre. He was imprisoned by the British government for his involvement with rebel forces and had several friends and acquaintances give their lives during the Derry hunger strikes. As it was just the three of us on the tour, it was very powerful and moved me to tears. His passion for Ireland and hatred for the British was still very alive and well although he is in his mid-seventies. It was way better than sitting in a lecture or watching a film, which is generally how I've been learning about The Troubles. And it turns out he was working behind the bar at a pub we were in the night before!
We also visited the wall that surrounds Derry, which is one of the 1,001 historic sites you must see before you die (apparently). It is filled with history and both British and Irish flags could be seen around the area as there still exist staunch republicans although it is technically a part of the UK and Northern Ireland. There are also beautiful murals all over Free Derry in the Bogside just outside the wall depicting Bloody Sunday and other squabbles between the British and the rebel forces. It is hard to believe this stuff was just going on a few decades ago! We visited a pub where the last time two Brits came in (during the Troubles), the pub goers took them out back and shot them.. or so they say. I would not doubt it!
Just before leaving Sunday, we watched the very passionate football match between the Celtics and the Rangers (think UK/Louisville or Yankees/Red Sox) in a crowded pub where, I think, we were the only Americans. It was such a cool experience as everyone was jumping and yelling (and drinking..) and dancing and singing. They ended up tying, and I was just relieved they hadn't lost or some serious destruction may have taken place.
Last weekend I found castle ruins very close by, went to the outdoor market, and attended a rugby match! I will post pictures soon!
Thank you all so much for your prayers and skype conversations and emails. They mean so much to me and I am ashamed to say I would have come home a long time ago without them. I do feel a bit like I'm lacking solid community here, but am still grateful and excited to have these few moths to myself to really travel and pray and learn. I am already learning so much! To cook and be better at yoga, better at stifling my urges to complain, better at traveling, better at walking long distances in the cold wind and rain! God is with me and will never leave me and I am relearning His consistency and love in my life. <3
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