Two weekends ago I visited Derry, Northern Ireland's border city and possibly the most historic site of conflict between the two states. Before taking my class on "The Two Irelands in the Twentieth Century", I wouldn't really know a thing about The Troubles but with just a slight amount of background information the experience was very moving.
I traveled with two guys in my program, Matt and Mike. We took a 5 and a half hour bus ride and I discovered that traveling is what I have really been missing here. I get frustrated staying in Galway every weekend, so it was fun to leave for a couple of nights. We stayed at the Independent Hostel (which I highly recommend) and befriended the manager who is from California but has lived all over the world.
He set up a tour for us of Derry with a man who served as an IRA (Irish Republican Army) volunteer and was a marcher on the fateful Bloody Sunday massacre. He was imprisoned by the British government for his involvement with rebel forces and had several friends and acquaintances give their lives during the Derry hunger strikes. As it was just the three of us on the tour, it was very powerful and moved me to tears. His passion for Ireland and hatred for the British was still very alive and well although he is in his mid-seventies. It was way better than sitting in a lecture or watching a film, which is generally how I've been learning about The Troubles. And it turns out he was working behind the bar at a pub we were in the night before!
We also visited the wall that surrounds Derry, which is one of the 1,001 historic sites you must see before you die (apparently). It is filled with history and both British and Irish flags could be seen around the area as there still exist staunch republicans although it is technically a part of the UK and Northern Ireland. There are also beautiful murals all over Free Derry in the Bogside just outside the wall depicting Bloody Sunday and other squabbles between the British and the rebel forces. It is hard to believe this stuff was just going on a few decades ago! We visited a pub where the last time two Brits came in (during the Troubles), the pub goers took them out back and shot them.. or so they say. I would not doubt it!
Just before leaving Sunday, we watched the very passionate football match between the Celtics and the Rangers (think UK/Louisville or Yankees/Red Sox) in a crowded pub where, I think, we were the only Americans. It was such a cool experience as everyone was jumping and yelling (and drinking..) and dancing and singing. They ended up tying, and I was just relieved they hadn't lost or some serious destruction may have taken place.
Last weekend I found castle ruins very close by, went to the outdoor market, and attended a rugby match! I will post pictures soon!
Thank you all so much for your prayers and skype conversations and emails. They mean so much to me and I am ashamed to say I would have come home a long time ago without them. I do feel a bit like I'm lacking solid community here, but am still grateful and excited to have these few moths to myself to really travel and pray and learn. I am already learning so much! To cook and be better at yoga, better at stifling my urges to complain, better at traveling, better at walking long distances in the cold wind and rain! God is with me and will never leave me and I am relearning His consistency and love in my life. <3
Friday, February 18, 2011
The Cliffs of Moher!
I know it's been a while! Two weeks ago I had the beautiful opportunity to take a bus tour to the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher, not far from Galway City, with some of the people in my program. It is, by far, one of the most incredible places I have ever been! Our bus driver/tour guide was a little creepy, but kept loudly singing "Galway Girl" by Steve Earl as well as some trad music which made things entertaining..
We stopped at a castle, or, as he called it, a "glorified tower house", as well as the "famous" crosses of Klifenora, an early monastic site from the 11th/12th centuries. The crosses were built most likely to raise the prominence of the monastery at a time when competition was high.
The Burren is a very rocky area near Galway where some people in our program are studying at the Burren College of Art. Everyone jokes that it has zero nightlife, but it is so beautiful! Burren means rocky is gaelic and there are ancient tombs we visited. Poulnabrone is supposedly one of the oldest and best preserved portal tombs, dating back to the 4th millennium BC! The anthropologist in me loved it.
We also stopped at this fairy ring, a supposed National monument. It was only a circular clearing nestled in a forest and, without any background context, was pretty dull. But still beautiful, I suppose, as everything in this country is infused with romance and beauty.
The cliffs were magical. They grace the cover of my Lonely Planet Ireland travel book and many a film! We had a clear day for seeing them, which is rare at this time of year. The pictures speak for themselves, although we were all frustrated at our camera's inability to really capture the breathtaking view. Some of us climbed a tower that appeared to be a castle for a better view of the cliffs. I payed two euro, totally worth it. Two musicians were playing accordion and tin whistle and it was magical. I can't find a better word than "magical" to explain it.
More to come soon! <3
We stopped at a castle, or, as he called it, a "glorified tower house", as well as the "famous" crosses of Klifenora, an early monastic site from the 11th/12th centuries. The crosses were built most likely to raise the prominence of the monastery at a time when competition was high.
The Burren is a very rocky area near Galway where some people in our program are studying at the Burren College of Art. Everyone jokes that it has zero nightlife, but it is so beautiful! Burren means rocky is gaelic and there are ancient tombs we visited. Poulnabrone is supposedly one of the oldest and best preserved portal tombs, dating back to the 4th millennium BC! The anthropologist in me loved it.
We also stopped at this fairy ring, a supposed National monument. It was only a circular clearing nestled in a forest and, without any background context, was pretty dull. But still beautiful, I suppose, as everything in this country is infused with romance and beauty.
The cliffs were magical. They grace the cover of my Lonely Planet Ireland travel book and many a film! We had a clear day for seeing them, which is rare at this time of year. The pictures speak for themselves, although we were all frustrated at our camera's inability to really capture the breathtaking view. Some of us climbed a tower that appeared to be a castle for a better view of the cliffs. I payed two euro, totally worth it. Two musicians were playing accordion and tin whistle and it was magical. I can't find a better word than "magical" to explain it.
More to come soon! <3
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