Derry, Northern Ireland

Two weekends ago I visited Derry, Northern Ireland's border city and possibly the most historic site of conflict between the two states. Before taking my class on "The Two Irelands in the Twentieth Century", I wouldn't really know a thing about The Troubles but with just a slight amount of background information the experience was very moving.

I traveled with two guys in my program, Matt and Mike. We took a 5 and a half hour bus ride and I discovered that traveling is what I have really been missing here. I get frustrated staying in Galway every weekend, so it was fun to leave for a couple of nights. We stayed at the Independent Hostel (which I highly recommend) and befriended the manager who is from California but has lived all over the world.

He set up a tour for us of Derry with a man who served as an IRA (Irish Republican Army) volunteer and was a marcher on the fateful Bloody Sunday massacre. He was imprisoned by the British government for his involvement with rebel forces and had several friends and acquaintances give their lives during the Derry hunger strikes. As it was just the three of us on the tour, it was very powerful and moved me to tears. His passion for Ireland and hatred for the British was still very alive and well although he is in his mid-seventies. It was way better than sitting in a lecture or watching a film, which is generally how I've been learning about The Troubles. And it turns out he was working behind the bar at a pub we were in the night before!

We also visited the wall that surrounds Derry, which is one of the 1,001 historic sites you must see before you die (apparently). It is filled with history and both British and Irish flags could be seen around the area as there still exist staunch republicans although it is technically a part of the UK and Northern Ireland. There are also beautiful murals all over Free Derry in the Bogside just outside the wall depicting Bloody Sunday and other squabbles between the British and the rebel forces. It is hard to believe this stuff was just going on a few decades ago! We visited a pub where the last time two Brits came in (during the Troubles), the pub goers took them out back and shot them.. or so they say. I would not doubt it!

Just before leaving Sunday, we watched the very passionate football match between the Celtics and the Rangers (think UK/Louisville or Yankees/Red Sox) in a crowded pub where, I think, we were the only Americans. It was such a cool experience as everyone was jumping and yelling (and drinking..) and dancing and singing. They ended up tying, and I was just relieved they hadn't lost or some serious destruction may have taken place.

Last weekend I found castle ruins very close by, went to the outdoor market, and attended a rugby match! I will post pictures soon!

Thank you all so much for your prayers and skype conversations and emails. They mean so much to me and I am ashamed to say I would have come home a long time ago without them. I do feel a bit like I'm lacking solid community here, but am still grateful and excited to have these few moths to myself to really travel and pray and learn. I am already learning so much! To cook and be better at yoga, better at stifling my urges to complain, better at traveling, better at walking long distances in the cold wind and rain! God is with me and will never leave me and I am relearning His consistency and love in my life. <3

The Cliffs of Moher!

I know it's been a while! Two weeks ago I had the beautiful opportunity to take a bus tour to the Burren and the Cliffs of Moher, not far from Galway City, with some of the people in my program. It is, by far, one of the most incredible places I have ever been! Our bus driver/tour guide was a little creepy, but kept loudly singing "Galway Girl" by Steve Earl as well as some trad music which made things entertaining..

We stopped at a castle, or, as he called it, a "glorified tower house", as well as the "famous" crosses of Klifenora, an early monastic site from the 11th/12th centuries. The crosses were built most likely to raise the prominence of the monastery at a time when competition was high.

The Burren is a very rocky area near Galway where some people in our program are studying at the Burren College of Art. Everyone jokes that it has zero nightlife, but it is so beautiful! Burren means rocky is gaelic and there are ancient tombs we visited. Poulnabrone is supposedly one of the oldest and best preserved portal tombs, dating back to the 4th millennium BC! The anthropologist in me loved it.

We also stopped at this fairy ring, a supposed National monument. It was only a circular clearing nestled in a forest and, without any background context, was pretty dull. But still beautiful, I suppose, as everything in this country is infused with romance and beauty.

The cliffs were magical. They grace the cover of my Lonely Planet Ireland travel book and many a film! We had a clear day for seeing them, which is rare at this time of year. The pictures speak for themselves, although we were all frustrated at our camera's inability to really capture the breathtaking view. Some of us climbed a tower that appeared to be a castle for a better view of the cliffs. I payed two euro, totally worth it. Two musicians were playing accordion and tin whistle and it was magical. I can't find a better word than "magical" to explain it.












More to come soon! <3

Tuam Homestay

Two weekends ago, I had the wonderful opportunity of staying with a host family in the small community of Clare Tuam. The family, the O'Briens, have had several French and American students to lavish their hospitality upon, and I was blessed to be one of them for two nights! Bernie, the mother, is so warm and talkative, reminding me of my mama, and the father, Tommy, was equally hospitable and kind. The two boys, Killean and Darren, 6 and 10, were two of the most well behaved children I have had the pleasure of meeting. My host sister, Mandy, and I played two games of Monopoly with them and they took us around their small city center in the rain. With two young boys as tour guides, of course we went to two pet shops and two candy stores! When driving around Clare Tuam Saturday, we literally had to stop in the road for a herd of cows to move! Just like the movies! :)



We visited Tommy's parents' farm where he and his five brothers and one sister grew up. We met the cows and horses, then came in the kitchen for tea. They ended up serving us hot Irish whiskey (because it was a rainy day.. even though almost every day is!) and asking me to sing "Blue Moon of Kentucky"! Such good craic (translation: the world's best fun)!

Sunday, we went to Catholic Mass where the priest was overjoyed to see us, "Young people!" he screamed, "I love young people who are unafraid to come to mass on a Sunday morning!" He went on and on. It was great. For the remainder of the day, Mandy and I cooked in the kitchen with Bernie.



It was probably some of the happiest moments I have had here. We both love to cook, and she showed us how to make Irish brown bread, scones, an apple tart, and all kinds of vegetables. Then we shared our meal and caught the coach back home to Galway, about half an hour away. Tears came to my eyes on the bus ride back. I love being in a home and surrounded by so much love. I was shocked by how much it made me want a family of my own. My personality often fails to be one of what someone my age in my society is supposed to have, meaning I am a nurturer and somewhat of an introvert. But when I'm comfortable with someone, I give them my whole heart and desire to know them completely. Being surrounded by family is when I feel the most comfortable and free to be myself, even if it's only a family I've known for 48 hours.

Luckily, Mandy and I are going back to stay for a longer weekend in February and maybe to take a trip with the family this time! I can't wait. Rolling green hills and masses of fluffy sheep!

Other than that, I have really started to settle into my new home and I couldn't possibly be happier.. The only thing I keep wanting to complain about is the 35 minute hike to campus every day. But, I found a shortcut that trims off about five minutes and takes me through a couple of fields and up dirt path where I jump the guard rail at the top of a hill next to an old "castle" (really a stone house). It makes me feel adventurous.

Tomorrow, my roommate Chloe and I are going to the Cliffs of Moher and I will definitely post pictures. Also, I have done a little more sightseeing in Galway, including Salthill and the Harbor. So, so beautiful. More to come!

<3 <3 <3

A Walk Around Galway.

We had a rare sunny day in Galway last week and I took a walk alone, listening to Damien Rice on my ipod, and documenting my new beautiful town.







I stopped on a bench in Eyre Square - the center of downtown - and wrote in my journal just as the sun was beginning to set (which is around 4:30pm here). I still haven't made it over to the harbor or the Spanish Arch. Today it is sunny again and I'm about to head out to do some much needed grocery shopping.

I went on a homestay to Tuam in County Galway this past weekend and will post some pictures of the beautiful countryside asap.

In the beginning...

Hello!

This is mainly a blog to keep my folks and beloveds updated on my European travels. I am currently studying anthropology at Transylvania University in Kentucky, but have traveled abroad to Galway, Ireland for the semester. Here, I am a student at the National University of Ireland at Galway, and am taking Gaelic and Irish Studies classes.

I moved to Dublin on New Year's Day, then to Galway January 3rd, one week ago. It has been one of the longest weeks of my life!

I have only been to a few pubs, but Galway is famous for them and their live trad (traditional) music sessions that often take place in dark pub corners. A girl in my program, Caroline, plays the flute amazingly well, and joined in with the musicians. There was a singer, a fiddler, a banjo player, and a bodhran (a traditional Irish drum) player. I sat with the musicians in the corner and was contently sipping my Guinness and taking in the improvisational music and the loud Irish accented conversations happening in the tiny pub. Two traditional cloggers were in town for just one more night, and they danced right at my feet for the whole pub while the band played. It was exactly how you would imagine and hope it would be.

I met a man, the trad singer, who lives in Illinois but was born in Galway. When I asked him why on earth he would leave this beautiful community, when his voice had proved how passionately and emotionally connected he was to Ireland. He pointed to his wedding ring and said, "Five years ago, I met a girl right in this very pub. The rest is history." Yes. It brought tears to my eyes, although - as many of you know - that is no rare occurrence.

Today I started classes at NUI. Campus is a 35-40 minute walk from my building and it is only full daylight here from just before 10AM until 4:30PM or so. Class was at 9AM, so I walked in the dark windy rain alone, but my class was thoroughly interesting: Celtic Mythology, Religion, and Folklore. My home institution is quite limited in what it can offer us anthropology students, so anything specific is a huge gift.

I'm headed back out with some people in my program in search of some musical pubs in the dark rainy night!

<3